Our Blog - Mirepoix, France

The name of the town is first seen in 1063 and comes from "mira peis", which means "place from where one looks at the fish" in the Occitan language. It refers to the location of the town, built near a place on the Hers River where the water is sufficiently clear to be able to admire the fish. By the early 13th century, the city is flourishing on the right bank of the Hers River, with almost 2,000 people, many businesses, and a bit of industry. That changed in 1279 when a dam broke, causing a terrible flood which destroyed almost the entire city. It was rebuilt starting in 1289 but across the river on the left bank. It was rebuilt in the shape of a country estate, which explains the streets drawn along two perpendicular axes and a large central square. The city prospered and in 1317, Pope John XXII made it a bishopric. In 1362, the city was attacked and set on fire, destroying the southern part of the city. They decided to enclose the city with a wall and fortified gates. Like most medieval walls, they became obsolete and were removed, allowing the city to expand.

This gate, Porte d'Aval, is the only remaining part of the fortifications, and was the entry gate on the western side of the city. You can still see the Christmas decorations above the door that Tom and Lucy are heading towards.

The other gates have been removed, but in their place, the city has put up little pieces of artwork like this one.

Life revolves around the main square, place du Maréchal-Leclerc. On Mondays, there is a large market here where you can buy your food, but also clothes, shoes, mattresses, and even some garden tools. The square is almost entirely enclosed by 15th century half-timbered houses with wooden galleries. Wooden pillars support the facades and form covered galleries on 3 sides.

After the city was rebuilt, the local magistrates built the Maison des Consuls on this main square. Originally the town hall, it also as a court, prison, and boardroom. The front beam is made from a single piece of oak about 40 feet long and 2 feet thick. On the façade, over 100 sculptures adorn the ends of the pillars with images of animals, monsters, and caricatures of mediaeval professions and social groups.

The Market Hall was inaugurated in 1885. The design of the large metal structure is similar to the Parisian markets of the same period. It was perfect for grain trade, and originally there were grain measures in the middle of the floor (2 of them now sit in front of the Tourism office).

The original church in Mirepoix, which was on the right bank of the river (so destroyed in the flood) was named Saint Maurice, as it was the day of Saint-Maurice (September 22nd), that the armies of Simon de Montfort took the city and placed the church under the patronage of the saint and his companions in 1209. A new church was started in 1298 and the construction lasted 6 centuries, finally being finished in the 16th century, when the houses next to the cathedral were demolished and a steeple was added. The bell tower was completed in 1506.

It has the second widest Gothic arch in Europe (after Girona in Catalonia, Spain) although in general, it is not as tall as many Gothic churches. Under this arch are the nave as well as side chapels on both sides. Unlike many Gothic churches, there is no walking aisle between the nave and the side chapels. Instead, the side chapels are effectively built into the outside of the arch. Each entire cathedral is richly decorated with painted decor on every wall as well as the ceiling.

Inside are many gilded wooden statues of the 18th century, including this one of Saint Maurice (the patron saint) and one of Joan of Arc.

The organ has 40 stops on three keyboards and was built by the Link factory in Giengen an der Brenz (Southern Germany) in 1891. It is the most important instrument built by these organ builders for France. Having never been restored, it allows people to get a full understanding the German organ work of that time.

Below are some paintings from the 17th and 18th centuries, and there are altar tables and carved stone supports from the 15th century. I like the last picture, as it shows the colors from the stained glass windows shining across the wall.

Just a couple pictures of some of the stained glass windows.

I mentioned that the city was made a bishopric in the 1300's. In the late 1400's, a new Episcopal Palace was built by Philippe de Lévis (the bishop of Mirepoix at the time). He bought a small ruined house located to the west of the cathedral and built a new house. It ended up being too small and this new palace was built. The palace was built with an entry directly into the cathedral so that he could go directly from his apartment to the nave of the cathedral. After he died, the palace was abandoned and none of his successors ever occupied the palace.